Scotland: The Highlands

Inverness

My only Bed and Breakfast offered quiet humble room with breakfast sweetened with hospitality.
Town of Inverness gateway to the Highlands, day tours below. River Ness lovely centerpiece for a walk alongside.
The Isle of Skye: became tourist attraction after Queen Elizabeth purchased nearby Balmoral castle.
The Isle of Skye: peak season, one needs a dinner reservation and campers, backpackers camp anywhere and everywhere.
The Isle of Skye: well worth the visit the area abounds with hidden waterfalls, bounding rivers and rocky terrain.
Isle of Skye: Exemplifies The glorious magnificent Highlands of Scotland
Balnuaran of Clara a sacred landscape, a prehistoric site that interred important member of community, 4000 years ago.
Witness the last civil war between the Jacobites aka the Highlanders vs British government who fought on Scottish soil in 1746 at Culloden, fought about clans and religion on this sacred field. Highlanders were evicted, replaced with sheep.?They repressed Highland culture: banned the kilt, banished bagpipe, and carrying weapons.
A modern interactive exhibit of the close range battle and mass graves of Culloden. Ferocious hand to hand fighting, the Jacobites faint with hunger and lack of sleep, 700 dead in seconds by British cavalry of cannon fire, mortar bombs, musket with bayonet, swords. Excavation of metal objects unfolded details of battle.
After the 1846 Culloden battle, the Highlander people were banished and replaced with non native white sheep that currently dominates the landscapes. Smaller and heartier black sheep are native to the Highlands and are found in only small herds today.
Glen Afric is a nature preserve where Scottish pine has been replanted on the banks of a winding river.. Highlands privately owned by 500 billionaire men of non native Scottish heritage who use land for hunting lodges.
Pippa Middleton married the blue blood Matthew family who owns the private hunting lodge in Glen Afric posted no trespassing signs goes against Scotlands motto, FREE TO ROAM.

Loch Ness & Fort Augustine

James from Rabbies tours drove around Loch Ness, spotted a 10 point stag, stopped at waterfall and beach where a gentleman named Steve lives 33 years looking for the Loch Ness monster!

Loch Ness While Loch Ness is best known for the Loch Ness monster, Loch Ness connects the North Sea to the Atlantic thru lockes. The town of Inverness opens to the North sea, going down the Loch Ness to Fort Augustus through locks to the Atlantic ocean, which bypasses the more northern waters.

Fort Augustus connects the North Sea to the Atlantic using a series of locks to accommodate working barges, Scottish naval ships and sailboats.
Boat ride on Loch Ness.
Video of bag pipe player on the Highland tour

Glasgow, Scotland

Early on, the heart of Glasgow was ship building as reflected in architecture: bow, keel, sails of sailing ships.

Glasgow Perspective from hop on bus, only 2 days in Glasgow, Central Train Station and University

First rain after 9 days in Scotland. On last Rabbies tour in Scotland to Glencoe and Loch Lomand and Trossachs National Park.
Frying up Scallops from the sea to frying pan in resort town of Oban.

Windsor Castle

Windsor castle is the home of kings and queens for centuries. Also St George’s church is nextdoor, where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle married. I was allowed admittance for services only, no touring, so I enjoyed a 30 minute sermon.

The church is divided in half, making the ceremony more intimate. I comfortably sat where royalty sat, to watch the sermon. The church is also site of tombs and memorials. King George VI (Kings speech), Queen Elizabeth (The Queen Mother) and Princess Margaret (QEll sister) are interred in a memorial chapel. The coffin of Henry VIII is also buried here.

Windsor Castle burned in 1992, after 5 years of rebuilding, there is little remnant of charred wood. The castle wasn’t as cold and drafty as I expected.

The state rooms were posh, high painted ceilings, and expansive Turkish rugs. The countryside was lovely, green pastures, Thanes meandering with swans swimming.

The Blitz

St Paul Cathedral

The blitz lasted 9 months of unrelenting bombing, London was the main target but 16 cities, killing 60,000 civilians. The Germans desiccated the area around St Paul cathedral, where the their aim was to take down the stock exchange. In actuality, the Brits had already dispersed their central stock exchange. This picture shows Saint Pauls Cathedral surrounded by post World War II modern buildings. How did the British win the war, the Brits out maneuvered the Germans.

Guide from London Walking Tour

The British are not particularly organized but when they put their mind to it they excel. They caught a large German spy ring and offered them death or work with the British. Half chose death as they were die hard Natzi but the other half worked with the Brits. The other maneuver was the double cross committee, aka XX, actor David Niven was a member, who would think up ideas to scramble messages and relay false info to the Germans using the spy’s under the direction of Brits. Lastly, the Brits decoded the Enigma code, made famous by the film, The Imitation Game.

The Commonwealth fought with the British, against German, in fact Canadians had heavy casualties.

Trafalgar Square

The Norwegians in their gratitude, send a Christmas tree directly from Oslo, Norway, set up prominently at Trafalgar Square annually. Simon, traveling to London for 2 days told me his Father fought in World War II as a merchant marine was on the boat when the first tree was delivered to the British people.

The symbol of British resistance was St Paul’s Cathedral. Today, modern skyscrapers post WWll replace the downed buildings.

Oxford, England

I was your typical Oxford tourist; first thing out of my mouth was where is the University. In actuality the university is all of Oxford; the campus surrounded me.Known as one of the oldest universities in the English speaking world, Oxford doesn’t disappoint.

Notably:

◦ The stairwell from the Harry Potter scene was filmed here at Christ Church. The Great dining hall was not filmed here because of the small space. So Warner Brothers scoped out the Great Dining spaces of Oxford and returned to the studios to film.

◦ The Oxford daughter was immortalized by Lewis Carroll in Alice’s adventures in Wonderland 1865.

◦ JRR Tolkien (author of the Hobbit, Lord of the Rings) took the towers from Oxford University for his story, The Two Towers. A dual edged sword Tolkien became famous in his lifetime and yet he was a very private man. He would find devotees in his home following him, calling him, he finally had to disconnect his phone and move. Tolkien passed in 1973, Oxford.

◦ CS Lewis author of Chronicles of Narnia wrote about the children who see a lamp post, original lamp post in Oxford.

◦ Tolkien and Lewis were good friends and at one point they taught at Oxford at the same time. Imagine being a literary major at that time!

◦ Notable alumni: Albert Einstein, Tony Blair, Margaret Thatcher, Rupert Murdoch, Steven Hawkins, Oscar Wilde, Bill Clinton, High Grant.

Walked thru University Park to the Natural history Museum, where the highlight was the skeleton including DNA, of the extinct dodo, a large kind of pigeon that lived on an island off the Indian Ocean. The road to extinction likely began when the dodo lost the ability to fly because there were no predators. When man invaded, they were easy to catch. Even though they were foul tasting, still the bird became extinct in the 1680.

The gargoyles on St Mary’s church made a gargling sound when the water runs out, thus called gargoyles.

The Bear Inn is the oldest pub in the quaint town of Oxford. A distinctive feature of the Bear is a collection of over 4,500 snippets of neckties. Tie ends were clipped with a pair of scissors in exchange for half a pint of beer. These are now displayed in glass-fronted cases on the walls and even the low ceiling.

Tower of London

Who knew it was a world heritage site! The Tower of London was not only a royal palace but an infamous prison, a place of execution, beheading if you were lucky, from high treason. If you were a commoner, hanging was an hour of suffering by strangulation. You were considered lucky if a commoner pulled on your dangling legs to hasten death. The last public execution took place in 1780, collecting more viewers than the population in London. The flimsy wooden stands surrounding the square collapsed due to the weight of the crowds and killed six viewers. Anne Boleyn 2nd wife of King Henry Vlll beheaded for trumped up charges of adultry in 1536.

Once again, our tour guide from London Walks was an encyclopedia of British knowledge rambling off dates names and incidences seamlessly. After two hours he left us to explore on our own but picking the most crowded weekend of the year the cues were too long. Hence a visit to the Crown Jewels were aborted. Besides, my feet were already numb and I couldn’t wait in the cold so I abandoned the Tower of London.

The rest of the day was kind of a bust, everything was either booked or closed as I arrive late on a busy Sunday. So I walked and walked, admiring the unique architecture of London’s sky rises. Walked to Spitalfields market full of stores and pop ups. Then the underground to Soho, Chinatown, finally the West End. My plan is to purchase same day-tics where they release 20 seats in the front row, 1st come 1st serve for 20 euros: Girl from the North Country, music and lyrics by Bob Dylan and a recommended, sold out show Everybody’s talking about Jamie. Today I logged 8 miles. Tomorrow I move from my fleabag hotel to my London flat for the next eight days where I will be in luxury taking hot baths making my breakfast and sleeping in a queen-size bed with views!

The British Museum

Indulged in my first “walking tour” with 16 others from all over the world. Our guide was animated and informed. Neoclassical design, originally the collection from a physician of the royal family. A century later, it was open to the public. 3000 glass panel ceiling turn of the century, that connects the round reading room to the facade.

Our first room was devoted from cradle to grave, across the worlds culture, Day of the Dead etc.

The Easter Island stone figure is known as the stolen one from Easter island. Currently in negotiations between the Polynesian peoples and the Brits.

Originally a library, kind of like our Library of Congress, the books took over, cataloging fell apart and the government stepped in to move the volumes of books into the British museum.

The key to the Egyptian hieroglyphs. The most important find in history of the Rosetta Stone, from Egypt. Discovered in the river Nile, 1799, in Rosetta. 3 different types of Egyptian carvings including hieroglyphics, demophic and Ancient Greek. Meaningful because the pharaoh translated the hieroglyphics- which opened up the translation of hieroglyphics. 176 BC

Largest collection of Egyptian mummies outside of Egypt. Also, the largest, heaviest bust of King Ramesses, smiling to reflect a benevolent leader.

Tate modern museum

Cubism, surrealism, contemporary, Impressionism, modern art all under one roof located next to the River Thames. When the Tate opened its doors, it was a small collection of British artworks. Today the Tate displays a national collection of British artwork from 1500 to the present day. Many well-known artists are represented: Picasso, George Braque, Miro, Modigliani, Diego Rivera, Paul Klee, Salvador Dali, Monet and an American favorite Jackson Pollock. Notable LA artist, Ruscha painted 26 gasoline stations, 34 empty parking lots (aerial), 9 pools all reflecting commentaries of American culture.

Another American artist, Jenny Holzer, 1950 originally posted across NYC, each essay has 100 words and 20 lines that reflect her title piece, “Inflammatory Comments” reflecting political and moral positions intended to instill a sense of urgency in the reader.

An artist from Pakistan provides a cool soundtrack set against a visual form to the live quality of sound, that features a tabla/drum. Lastly, Irving Penn provides photographs of rubbish in NYC, shows overlooked objects into intriguing works of art.

London: Last Day

The grain of fabric is the secret of couture.” Christian Dior

Dior’s parents wanted him to become a diplomat. He studied political science for three years and left to design. His parents succumbed with the stipulation that the family name not appear on the title of the business.

Christian Dior’s New Look was an immediate sensation, offering an alternative to the boxy masculine fashion post WW1. Dior’s fashion featured full, richly pleated skirts, cinched waist, hip hugging pencil skirts, long gowns epitomizing a fashionable new womanly silhouette.

Dior designed dresses for English debutantes in the 50s.

Famously, in 1951, Dior designs a dress (silk organza, mother-of-pearl and sequins) for Princess Margaret’s 21st official portrait, photographed by Cecil Beaton.

Dior designs dresses for many American celebrities that graced numerous red carpets: Olivia de Havaland, Jane Russell, Elizabeth Taylor, Rihanna, Natalie Portman, Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Lawrence.

The ateliers are the heart of Dior. The dresses made entirely by hand, using both traditional and modern techniques, often taking hundreds of hours to complete. Upon Dior’s sudden death, Yvette Saint Laurent, former Assistant, just 21 years old, appointed creative director at the House of Dior.

His first collection, circa 1960, moved the emphasis away from the waistline. Successive Creative Directors at the house, have continued Dior’s enthusiasm for the fantastical and fairy tale Dior ball gown, evening dresses and ready to wear. Present day Creative Director is notably the first woman, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

St Paul’s Cathedral aka The Nations Church, was the tallest landmark until 1962, rising 365 feet high, designed by Christopher Wren over 30 years.

Notably, Princess Diana and Charles were married in this church. One can climb stairs to the Whispering gallery, where you can hear a companion whisper from quite a distance away. It was an unplanned effect of the dome design.

Climbing 500 steps, the Golden Gallery awaits 360 views of the river Thames and the Millennium bridge that embarks on the white Globe theatre and the Tate Modern Art. Architect, Wren and Admiral Nelson are buried here.

Florence Nightingale and Winston Churchill are not buried here, but there is a tribute to Florence Nightingale. And Churchhill‘s funeral was held here.

Took a bus to Covent Square, where I stumbled into an Apple store, to watch a live feed of Apples special event broadcasted from Cupertino. Stopped me dead in my tracks. I like the new Apple credit card! I arrived a bit late for the market. Totally enjoyed the scene.

The Phantom of the Opera at Her Majesty Theatre was not to disappoint. The venue was both grand and intimate. It is the only theatre in the world where the name will change from Her Majesty to His Majesty Theatre, upon the changing of HRH. The production in SF was anemic compared to the London production. The live orchestra added to the great soundtrack. The changing sets were mesmerizing, the costumes were ornate and the theatrics was fun. A powerful performance and I love that they sell ice cream during intermission!

DAY 3 London

Kensington Palace built by Christopher Wren 1689, merged his preferred Baroque style into classical. Recall the times of the 1665 Great plague and 1666 Great Fires. Princess Victoria at 18 years old, becomes Queen of England upon her Uncles sudden death. Until then, Princess Victoria was born at Kensington Palace and reared by her overbearing Mother. At 18 years, upon becoming Queen, Victoria moves out of her childhood Kensington home, and moves to Buckingham Palace. She was the first Queen who reigned during the advent of photography-heralding in the Paparazzi and seven assassination attempt. Currently, six Royal families live at Kensington palace. Actually the current royals are living in the maids quarters from Queen Victoria’s reign. Maids quarters are really private residences because they are hidden and not seen from the palace. The most famous painting at Kensington Palace is by Van Dyke, a mythological themed Cupid and Psyche, circa 1639.

Before the London bridge was built, London did not exist. What made London bridge so famous and why it made my list to visit: it is Medieval, and at one time, counted over 30 spiked heads beheaded for treason and dipped in tar for preservation, displayed on the bridge, circa 1600. More recently, in 2017, London Bridge was the target of a terrorist attack. As a response, security barriers were installed between the bridge’s pavement and road. I felt safe crossing.

Harrods dept store was on my list mainly to see the princess Diana memorial. To my dismay, this memorial was removed six years ago and Mohamed Fayad no longer is the owner of Harrods. As relayed by a shop keeper, the Queen denied Fayad citizenship, forcing him to sell the business and move to Switzerland. Nevertheless I had something to eat, something to drink, took a picture, and shopped for clothes. Bypassed the American Brands and tried on a number of fashion from Italy and Great Britain, alas nothing really fit….

Just like Jim Morrison’s grave in Paris, you follow the crowds and arrive at Abbey road and Abbey road studio. The setting is tranquil, well to do suburb of London. Although just another intersection on an ordinary street, I really enjoyed my visit to Abbey Road, as I watched myself on live cam feed waiving to whoever was watching!

I ended my day at the Prime Ministers home, 10 Downing Street, but it was gated and guarded. I passed the Cabinet War rooms, a tour I would have loved to see! I jumped a bus to Piccadilly’s circus which resembles NYC Time Square. Had Mac and cheese with a gin and tonic and talked to a Canadian reservist Captain, stationed in Iraq and returning to his home in Nova Scotia after six months. We talked about everything from when the British and Commonwealth resisted World War II and the Americans reluctant to get involved. We talked about the Commonwealth of which Canada was one, and how much influence America has in the world reflected by the marketing of Coca-Cola, Nike and Hollywood cinema.

Tomorrow my last day, beginning with a sold out exhibit of Christian Dior at the V & A, to a tour of St Paul Cathedral, Covent Garden and a great seat at her Majesty’s theatre to watch Phantom of the Opera to unify my trip to Paris and London!

London:Arrival

D468E85A-33C1-464F-921D-218A290FD668.jpegMy first day arriving in London I went straight to Buckingham Palace. I’m not really sure why but when I was in Washington DC I went straight to the White House it was the only address I knew. Unfortunately there are no tours of the of the rooms until the summer months but there is always Kensington Palace. 

Knowing the Brexit protest was planned the next day, I chose to visit nearby landmark, Trafalgar Square, known for the Admiral Nelson column. Interestingly, more people die climbing the lions surrounding the column than those six who perished from the Great Fire of 1666. 1544AEC7-1BB5-4CA7-929D-CD33CBA95140.pngWestminster Abbey was my next stop, not as a visitor but as a worshipper. My iPhone put away, as I lit a candle for my Catholic Mom and stayed for mass. The Westminster choir composed of boys and men, from all over the world and schooled at the Abbey. That night I watched the wedding of Kaye and Prince William, recognizing the details of the church.77A5A079-4A53-4E20-AC14-E645E6A32EFA.pngStumbled on to the National Gallery that was open until 9pm, walked right in, a free museum! Purchased an audio guide that followed the most logical, well marked museum rooms, highlighting the essential paintings. Starting with the Renaissance painters of Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rafael and Titian. Representing Rubens to the Dutch, Rembrandt to the Impressionist painters of France. A wonderful selection of paintings reflecting the British love of arts and culture.