A friend asked me why I return to Marylebone. I couldn’t really answer her, but now that I’ve spent some time in Marylebone, I know the answer. First of all it’s a posh neighborhood, that is wide streets, well dressed people, clean and safe. It is also centrally located close to Baker St. and Marylebone stations.
There is some significant musical history too! The Beatles used to live here. Zak Starsky was born on Montagu Place. Jimi Hendrix lived there. John Lennon and Yoko Ono lived there. John Lennon was arrested there on trumped up charges of drugs later a cop was fired for planting drugs on Lennon. I want to hold your hand was written in the basement flat in Marylebone, the first song top hit, heralded in British Invasion.
At Marylebone City Hall, Paul McCartney married Linda Eastman, Ringo Starr married the Bond girl Barbara Bach, (uniting all 3 Beatles) and Paul McCartney married his recent wife Barbara Walters niece on the day of Lennon’s assassination. Apple was started on Baker Street. Guy Richie & Madonna used to have a home here as well.
Grow old with me is the closest you can come to a Beatles reunion: in 2019 Ringo Starr sings and plays the drums, Paul McCartney plays bass and sings on a song that John Lennon wrote.
No Beatles Tour is complete without Visiting Abbey Rd., Studios and the famous crosswalk of the album cover Abbey Road!
The trip went seamless. Travel by rail was dependable and comfortable. Lots of walking from station to hotel to town. We both lost weight! Each hotel was unique from the stable room to corporate hotel to B&B. Day tours were enriching with informative guides. Admittedly there were near misses but never lost anything. My aunt was a trouper, never complained and a good sleeper. Valley Girl had a 2 week backyard holiday & even got groomed. Lucy, my housekeeper raked up leaves in the side yard the day before home. Who could ask for more!
After 3 changes on the Northern Railroad, we made it to our most northern point in England and our last stop. There is a chill to the air and I hear sheep in the distance. It is noticeably calmer, more serene. In the old days, 300 years ago, Windermere focus in order: Farming, mining, tourism. Now the industry is tourism, farming, and one mine left, mining slate.
Wheatland Lodge, Old School Lane
Interestingly, in 1945, Windermere welcomed 300 child holocaust refugees into their community. The children were to spend a period of recuperation in the Lake district before settling into their new lives.
Bay windows from upper floor with views of the garden and slate rooftopsWatching sunset from B&B
Windermere is adorable, mountain feel full of essential shops: pet store, ice cream, & candy store! While the Cotswolds are known for their quaint villages, the Lake District is known for its picturesque hiking trails around the lakes. Hikers with their worn hiking boots, walking sticks and daypacks walk the streets. All around the Lake District, one can spot a sheep and or a hiker. The ice cream is special because it comes from the local Hereford sheep that doesn’t produce a lot of milk making it richer. 
Maze of public pathways in and around town
During a sunset, walk around the hotel just outside of town there is a maze of public pathways surrounded by rock walls and rod iron gates into private property. The neighborhood is quite posh with mansions and fancy cars in the driveway. Exterior walls of buildings & homes to roofs & walls all made of slate, mined in the area. Tourism has replaced mining.
Cocktails and dinner with a viewCelebrating our last stopFinally, a delicious pot pie, chips and veggies instead of ready made salads and or soup and crusty rolls.Reading Peter Rabbit
British born Beatrix Potter was one of the first successful female writers who not only wrote & illustrated (the first) children’s books but also contributed to the preservation of public lands around the Lake District and became a renowned farmer. She started drawing little animals, especially rabbits, foxes, mice and later published the wildly popular Peter Rabbit. Early on, she learned about conservation from a vicar and purchased land to donate to National Park. She retired as a farmer repeatedly winning first place for sheep contest.
Potter spearheaded conservation of the local Herdwick sheep. Herdwick sheep were nearing extinction because it was bred for meat, not wool and only breeds 1 calf. They are a hearty sheep that stays out in the snow, leaning against the rock wall to breathe thru the cracks. It will always find its way home.
British born William Wordsworth was the most famous poet in England who heralded in the Romantic age of poetry. He was born in Cockermouth but lived in Grassmere, Lake District overlooking the lake, being surrounded with nature.
He wrote the quintessential poem set upon daffodils. When his daughter died prematurely he planted hundreds of daffodils that bloom every year. In later life, Wordsworth achieved popularity selling & publishing his poems. He was an inspirational poet, writing about common places, in common language, a defender of right & wrong, aligned with the common man. He was against tourism, rallied against the steam train polluting the English Lake District. He would be turning over in his grave for how many tourist visit his gravesite.
Biggest microbreweries in the Lake District because of the rain and sweet water. The Windermere Brewery Co. names all the beer from dog breeds, twisting names like Dogth Vader.
Mountain Goat Tour: Ten Lakes Spectacular
Westmorland granite mine is a tourist attraction. It is not a stone but a result of volcanic ash & lava. Capable of splitting, originally used for roofing.
Full day Tour covers 90 miles visiting lakes, villages and National Forest and even still, we only saw 20% of the Lake District. Professional guide Duncan narrated entire day, sharing stories and history.
Adorable B&B in KeswickCastlerigg Stone Circle, Lake District National Park
3000 BC, considered older than Stonehenge. Nothing known about this site. Last night in Windermere, got sick, vomited into the night. Managed to get to London and ready to go home tomorrow!
In Liverpool. reference to the Beatles is everywhere: statues atop buildings, bronze statues on the wharf, murals, plaques, & posters. Since the Beatles, Liverpool is all about 60s music but before the Beatles, it was and remains a thriving working harbor.
Ferry on the River Mersey Tour
Ferry on the Mersey
From the river Mersey one can imagine the industrial Liverpool. Even today, the River Mersey is a commercial river. At the mouth of the Irish Sea, 700,000 containers of cargo unload. In 1990, longest running dock strike until USA took action against ships using Liverpool and a settlement was accepted. A retired American naval catamaran ferry motors to the Isle of Man and a ferry goes to Dublin. A tunnel under the river from the 1930s accommodates a train and a highway. A crew member who grew up & worked in Liverpool, commutes 45 minutes from north Wales reports the river Mersey has a strong current with two 30′ tides with a strong current and unfortunately, a suicide destination. Liverpool is the port of call on the Titanic, because The White Star Line funded the project….but the ill fated ship was built in Belfast, their last port of call Ireland.
Beatles 2 hr bus tour by knowledgeable local Liverpool guide, Coddy.
Beatles Bus Tour
Mural near home of Ringo
As a child, Ringo Starr and his family used to sing along to Les Brown’s Sentimental Journey and later released his album titled Sentimental Journey 1970.
Home of auntie where John Lennon lived
As a child John Lennon lived with his middle class auntie, with his Mummy visiting regularly until she was run over by a drunk driver. John was 18 years old.
Sir Paul McCartney home, now a trust
Paul McCartney wrote Let it Be (arranged by Phil Spector) to his Mother Mary who died from a complication from breast cancer when Paul was 14 years old.
The Cavern Club
Backdrop: Cavern Hall of Fame
The original cavern was torn down in 1973. It was a smelly, sweaty swamp; they renovated using the original bricks, & the same footprint. The decor is all posters of bands, signed guitars of musicians that have all played at the cavern since it’s opening till today. Beatles played 274 times in the Cavern between 1961-1963, as well as The Rolling Stones. Oasis, the Kinks, Sir Paul Mc Cartney & more recently, Bruce Springsteen.
This nightclub at the Cavern at 10 Mathew St. holds 700 people & sold out every weekend for the Beatles tribute band!
They were introduced with a film of Churchill declaring war against Germany, moving into American icons: Bridgett Bardo, Les Brown, James Dean and news clippings: Cuban Missile crisis, QE coronation. Music spanned from Buddy Holly, Elvis Presley, the blues. Finally to the Beatles in America: LA Hollywood Bowl, (1964), NYC Shea stadium (1965), SF Candlestick (1966) where all venues sold out in hours
The tribute band started 3 sets with I Saw Her Standing There. After the American themed introduction, the backdrop was The Cavern Wall of Fame & Shea stadium.
Liverpool Museum
Besides the Beatles, Rex Harrison, Brian Epstein, Gerry Marsden & the Pacemakers were all from Liverpool. Movies made in Liverpool includes yesterday, filmed at the Lime Street rail station, and Batman on the top of the iconic Royal Liver building.
Central Library
Entrance to Central Library
The Central Library is the largest of 22 libraries in Liverpool. When you enter, 100 computers serve the community: people surfing the web, playing solitaire, placing a bet on horse racing, writing emails.
Quiet reading room in Central Library
Central Library has the grandest ground floor entrance and the most quiet reading room ever.
World Museum
World Museum Cafe: broccoli & potato soup with crusty roll
Not known for its food, but the painted mural relief of goddess Liverpool that adorns the wall above the new cafe is worth the visit.
Polar bear preying on seal in arctic.
As contrasted by the Liverpool museum near the harbor this is the original world museum, covering prehistoric, ancient Egypt, planetarium, including an aquarium and updated to include the endangered planet.
Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ
Controversial addition to community
Took only 5 years to build, nicknamed Paddys Wigwam.
Liverpool Cathedral
Helio: installation of 22′ sun to reflect on light for Easter, set to immersive sound compilation New brown bomber jacket from my fav store, M & S
Cardiff doesn’t define Wales but it’s a city of proud people & a cosmopolitan city hosting Stevie Wonder and Alice Cooper Summer 2025. Arrived at the Parador boutique hotel, exquisitely located close to train station, the Cathedral, the Castle and the river where I get the water taxi to the harbor.
The Cardiff Castle
The Castle exhibition and tour brilliant! In 1865 Lord John Butte was the richest person in Britain and third richest in the world. Lord John inherited land, but made his money from exporting coal or black gold using the Cardiff docks. Lord John was a fanatic of all things medieval, he purchased the castle. He situated his bedroom (en suite bathroom) 75 steps high up the spiral staircase.
Cardiff Castle
Lord Bute was not only the richest person in the world but spoke 21 languages, world traveler, a self proclaimed interior decorator and a collector transforming his castle into Welsh Victorian Camelot. He visited Italy adorning his roof garden with mosaics, statues, gardens and aqueducts reminiscent of Pompeii. Despite all the wealth, family members died early: renal disease, victims of war, more recently, cancer.
WW ll Bomb shelter in Castle outer wall
Before descendants stopped living in the Castle, they provided bomb shelters in the strong outer wall during the Blitz of WWll.
Water taxi to Cardiff harborCardiff, Wales Harbor: Parliament House, Harbormaster, Opera houseThe Opera house, Cardiff, Wales
Water taxi to Tiger Bay, man made harbor in Cardiff, Wales. Walked a section of the Wales Coast Path covers entire Wales coastline. Amidst the quay marketplace, the harbor boasts several modern buildings: the Opera house, the Harbormaster and the Welsh Parliament building.
Norway is a narrow long country the size of New Mexico with the smallest population of the Scandinavian countries. Norway 5.5 million, 5.9 Denmark and 10.6 Sweden.More than 1200 tunnels in Norway, the longest incorporated built-in turn around, colored lights & signs and call booths.Lærdal, mountain town sunsets from hotelLærdal, mountain town in NorwayOslo Norway Resistance Museum
The occupation of Norway provided strategic significant for the Germans during WW ll. Germany planned to invade Russia, that border with Norway. Norway had iron ore to supply war machine & nuclear power. Lastly, Norway had access to Northern sea necessary to fight off the Allies. Unlike the Danes and the Swedes, German army invasion struck a hard blow on Norways economy and loss of life.
Norwegian resistance fought back. Because of the link with the British (King and Prince of Norway retreated to Buckingham palace) they provided a lifeline and spy material to the Resistance. During the British blitz, Great Britain under Winston Churchill, fought alone for 1.5 years inspiring hope to the Resistance throughout Europe.
Some examples of Norweigen resistance: Norwegians smuggled across border with fake passport stamps. Bridges were blown up near Lillehammer to impede German advance. Both Allies and Norwegians bombed power plant and sabotaged transport to prevent Germany’s production of heavy water to produce the first atom bomb.
During the war, 40,000 political prisoners were held in camps. Survival rate less than 25% due to harsh winter conditions at 110-400 war camps or POW camps located in northern Norway. One prisoner poked holes in toilet paper sending secret messages; only the paper survived. Thousands were executed for the clandestine production of and distribution of 60 underground newspapers distributed three times a week. Resistance increased in 1943 a pivotal year where Hitler was not winning the war. End of 1944 Germans leave a scorched earth policy, detonate and burn everything in Northern Norway (and beyond).
Norway underground suffered the most losses and contributed to defeating Nazi Germany.
Norwegian sculpture, Gustav Vigeland whimsical life-like sculptures across the lifespan and depicting emotional spectrum.Oslo Fortress, views of ferries in harborView from Ferry boat from city center harbor to the many islands of the inner Oslo FjordOslo community floating saunas provide cosy warmth of the sauna and cool down in the fjord. Urban sauna culture has taken Oslo by storm!View from floating sauna in OsloRock CarvingSognefjord the longest, largest and deepest fjord of Norway, near the town of Flåm makes for some majestic views and waterfalls.Norway fiordNorway fiordMassive waterfall along road to Bergen, NorwayBergen historical Bryggen wharf, built 1070, rebuilt many times from ravaging fires. On UNESCO World Heritage list.Tour guide around Bergen town, cobbled streets, alleys, and old wooden structures.Funicular time lapse videoOn my way home!Business class Lufthansa via Frankfurt, Germany
Home sweet home with gifts for those at home who helped with Valley Girl.
Danish pastry and Peet’s coffee at homeFlags from Sweden, Norway, Denmark
Everts Sjobod in Grebbestade, along the coast of Sweden is an old boathouse from the late 1800s located in a marine protected national park. The family owned business offers a vintage electric wooden boat that takes passengers, offers newly built beach houses, a wood fired hot tub, and a delicious fish soup. There is crab, mackerel and lobster fishing, 90% of Sweden’s oysters grow in this archipelago. It is the most, beautiful, serene setting all of Scandinavia and the highlight of my trip.
Gastis hotel: Russian billionaire owned and eccentrically decorated.
Bus across the five mile Oresundbridge and tunnel connecting Sweden and Denmark.
Copenhagen, DenmarkSelfieBeing entertained by a theatre performing Hans Christian Andersen while waiting for dinner
Hans Christen Andersen was a poor Dane, who experienced many failures before becoming Danish most loved author of 175 children’s fairy tales, the most famous being: Ugly Duckling, the Princess & the Pea and The Little Mermaid. He also wrote travel logs and Andersen made famous the adage “to travel is to live”, my kinda historical figure!
The Museum of Danish Resistance
Like Sweden, Danes supported the German war machine and farmers put food on German tables to keep economy afloat and avoid unemployment. Unlike the Swedes, there is overt and passive resistance to cooperate and accommodate with Nazi Germany. Like Norway, Denmark was occupied but kept their Constitution. In September 1941, Danes agree that any German demand be rejected on the basis of the Constitution and best countered by all Danes wearing the Star of David. In the darkness of night, the Danish resistance moved families of Jews by canals to Sweden. Others spied by listening to telephone conversations and sabotaged railroad tracks. A more discreet way to boost democracy against dictatorship was posters that advertise patriotism.
Little mermaid: According to Forbes, this is an underrated tourist attraction, likely due to its diminutive stature.Boat ride around Copenhagen harbor: floating spa/club, paddle board with dog, topless young women
Copenhagen was full of activity on this sunny summer day. Danes paddle boarding, boating, canoeing, swimming, sun bathing topless!
Danish government made concerted effort to increase female statues in Copenhagen. Karen Christenze Dinesen, the Danish author, storyteller and colonizer, known pseudonym, Isak Dinesen wrote numerous famous books. Out of Africa, my favorite was an account of her life in a coffee farm in the Ngong hills of Kenya, complete with hardships and rewards. Blixen could have been awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature but the judges didn’t want to overrepresent the Scandinavians, regretfully. Infamously, many African leaders believe she was one of the most dangerous foreigners who stepped foot on Africa. Specifically she writes of vast erotic African wasteland and black servants as useful butchers and cooks. To be sure, Blixen was a complex independent woman living in a complex time.
Group shot from tour on Viking ship!
Largest Viking ship found in the waters off of Denmark. Viking means warrior of the sea.
Norwegian Mountain horses, pulling gypsiesFerry to Aero island, DenmarkAndelen hotel, Adam owner
Bike ride
Live music from hotel roomTraditional Danish lunch: open faced sandwichesHome built fireplace with stacked wood, Aeros island
Flight from Frankfurt delayed 3 hours due to European climate protesters at Frankfurt airport. Comfortably slept 4 hours on upper level of business class on Lufthansa, complete with mattress, comfy blanket, a long sleeved shirt and socks provided by airline. Despite delay, easily made connection from Frankfurt to Stockholm.
Arrived! Views from suite at Hotel WellingtonWell rested and ready to explore Stockholm 2 days before tour!Vertical wall gardenA landmark next to hotel, an early 1700 Lutheran church poised in a parkÖstermalms Saluhall, food court: simmering Swedish meatballs
Östermalms Saluhall or food court: Filets of salmon and herring showcase the ice filled displays, highlighted on Anthony Bourdain’s show
Upon recommendation from a local on the plane, took a 2 hour boat ride on the Baltic sea, under the bridges, and thru a Locke into the many lakes of Stockholm. In addition to sailboats, views of high rise townhouses from the water dominate the skyline. Flats full of walls of glass to capture light in winter. Colors of buildings are muted like the color of snow. 50% rent & 50% purchase.
Visited Nobel Prize museum in Stockholm. Controversial prizes include: Both Kissinger and Vietnamese leader received peace prize in 1973 but Vietnam leader refused prize because he didn’t believe peace had been achieved in Vietnam. Two Americans received controversial Prizes (1948, 1949) for inventing now banned DDT insecticides (environmental impact) and the other lobotomy, that negatively affects psyche.
Heidi from Copenhagen Rick Steves tour guide extraordinaireJohnnie from Sweden, part time bus driver for Rick Steves.
Sweden is slightly larger than California. Stockholm is a city of 2 million persons, comprised of 14 islands accessible by tunnels and bridges. 10.5 million Swedes and 20% of Swedish population are immigrants. Ranked 25th COLA index (as compared to Switzerland ranked #1). Clearly everything I’ve purchased is more or the same as California prices: bottles of water, alcohol, clothes and pharma items. Sweden is a 200 year old monarchy, a capitalistic society, a democracy and a socialist society! Unlike British monarchy, Swedish monarchy does not own palace or property. Capitalistic because they are 16th largest exporter of military equipment and boast 250 private military industries. Democratic because parliament government officials elected by the people, predominantly nurses and teacher. Socialist because Sweden government provides pension or social security and health care to all. Scandinavia countries taxed 38-48% depending on annual salary (US caps out taxes at 38%).
Stockholm Tour Guide Haakin Nobel prize Banquet room
Like Mark Twain, Swede Alfred Nobel the wealthiest man in the world read about his premature death while alive as the Merchant of Death bc of his invention of dynamite. Prompted by this premature eulogy, he donated his wealth to be distributed to 4 prizes, later a 5th prize generated by Oslo, Norway, the Peace prize.
Interesting historical fact is Sweden was neutral during WW ll but according to Winston Churchill, they played both sides for profit. Famous Swede rescued Swedish Jews from trains claiming he was a Swedish diplomat. On the other hand, Swedes provided military aide to the Germans and allowed millions of Germans to march thru Sweden.
Gamla Stan or Old townHaakan home in Gamla Stan
Rick Steves tour started with a walking tour with Haakon, a guest lecturer who invited us into his home in old town of Gamla Stan. Some interesting facts: Alcohol not sold in supermarkets and not after 3 on Saturday. Priests more likely to be women. All women faces on Swedish bills including director Ingmar Bergman, actress Greta Garbo and author Astrid Lindgren. Most secular people but everyone studies religion. Plastic water bottles have caps attached. Dogs cannot be left longer than 4 hours, tho not enforced. Parental leave is 18 months for each child, double for twins. Both parents work, no housewives. Employment not disparate among sexes. Vehicles yield to pedestrians but bicycles do not. Good morning in Swedish sounds like moron in English. Cashless society, all transactions Apple Pay or Swish, our Venmo. Stockholm cellular available much of the time.
Stockholm Subway art: Art depicting 1) an archeological excavation site, 2) silhouette of workers, 3) Chernobyl nuclear accident in Russia.
Remains of a 200 foot Swedish warship which sank on her maiden voyage nearly 400 years ago, due to top heavy with canons as ordered by King.
Varbarg, SwedenKalmar castle in cozy Kalmar, Sweden
Scottish and Irish flags: the most gracious, friendly, helpful people in some of the most beautiful country. The Irish love the Americans. The Pope and JFK were on every mantle in Irish households,Glasgow to Belfast: train, bus, ferry all day journey, arrived in Belfast, Northern Ireland on the Sten LineConditions: Perfectly calm waters, no wind, sprinkle of rain entering Belfast portShip had wide range of facilities including choice of dining and bars, and leisure facilities like cinema, spa, game room, Belfast Titanic quarter: Building represents the ship, Titanic. Element represents ships legacy: hull, iceberg and even benches reflecting Morse code!Titanic memorial Belfast downtown. Common to every catastrophic event, in addition to adverse weather conditions and high speed: no binoculars in crows nest, unheeded emergency warnings, design of bulkheads, lack of lifeboats and no drills all contributed to loss of life. Lastly, the Californian was closest to ship but operator went to bed.Belfast downtown landmarks (Queens Uni, Botanical gardens, Queen Victoria, City Hall): a little rough around the edges, not kept up, not a tourist town, more working class but lovely.To Dublin, Ireland: Last nite, purchased new double breasted short jacket from favorite Spanish store, Zara.Dublin: My private tour guide, adorable, intelligent, funny Colm from Dublin took me south thru Cabir to the tourist town of Blarney. Irish economy: 1980s, major export 50,000 Irish. Today, import 50,000 Irish year. Largest industry contributing to strong Irish GNP is pharmaceutical, medical supplies and tech. Last 35 years, international headquarters located Scotland: Apple in Cork, Facebook in Dublin. Why? Low taxes, only English speaking in EU and hey….Ireland is a nice place to live!Cahir: Town of the Republic of Ireland, simply stunning complete with swans. Caveat- can you believe America is home to more Irish Americans than Ireland is home to Irish.Tour of Jameson whiskey distillery: Under Irish law, Irish whiskey must age in barrels for minimum of 3 years. Barrels from Portugal, Spain, Madeira, California contribute to range of taste profiles: Butterscotch barley, toasted wood, toasted oak sherry, vanilla/sherry nutiness,Kilkenny quaint fishing village with live music coming from pubs after 830. Nautical theme prevail on doorways, windows, stained glass.Cobh Largest natural port, second to Sydney, Australia. In addition to Titanics last port, during the potato famine, 3 million Irish emigrated from harbor. Also famous for memorials commemorating last port of call for the Titanic and the Lusitania traveling between USA and Liverpool, England, in 1912 torpedoed and sunk by Germans, spurring WW l. Kilkenny castle: The wall sized murals lined the castle interior walls were intended for warmth, but also told a story symbolizing power strength, nobility of the family. Murals were brightly colored gold & silver silk, making images life like. Fact or fiction? Irishman from Hollywood, Ireland immigrated to California during the famine. He ended up naming a racetrack Hollywood from his birthplace and it became the name of the town. Both in Hollywood California and Ireland, they have a replica of iconic Hollywood sign in the hills and has filmed a number of films there.Hollywood California note palm tree and Hollywood, Ireland note green hills! Both pictures taken 2023.Irish own their own land,. Trees grow fast due to good soil. Cows are grass fed not corn. Kerrygold known Irish brand for butter.Beautiful Ireland at the end of my 18 day trip! Stunning landscape, gateway to Wicklow Mountains National Park. Only one hour drive from Dublin City center.Kitaa, Greenland from 38,000′.Approaching Bay Area, San Mateo bridge in foreground.Ocean Beach, San Francisco reunited with Valley Girl after 18 day trip to Scotland & Ireland