I was your typical Oxford tourist; first thing out of my mouth was where is the University. In actuality the university is all of Oxford; the campus surrounded me.Known as one of the oldest universities in the English speaking world, Oxford doesn’t disappoint.

Notably:

◦ The stairwell from the Harry Potter scene was filmed here at Christ Church. The Great dining hall was not filmed here because of the small space. So Warner Brothers scoped out the Great Dining spaces of Oxford and returned to the studios to film.

◦ The Oxford daughter was immortalized by Lewis Carroll in Alice’s adventures in Wonderland 1865.

◦ JRR Tolkien (author of the Hobbit, Lord of the Rings) took the towers from Oxford University for his story, The Two Towers. A dual edged sword Tolkien became famous in his lifetime and yet he was a very private man. He would find devotees in his home following him, calling him, he finally had to disconnect his phone and move. Tolkien passed in 1973, Oxford.

◦ CS Lewis author of Chronicles of Narnia wrote about the children who see a lamp post, original lamp post in Oxford.

◦ Tolkien and Lewis were good friends and at one point they taught at Oxford at the same time. Imagine being a literary major at that time!

◦ Notable alumni: Albert Einstein, Tony Blair, Margaret Thatcher, Rupert Murdoch, Steven Hawkins, Oscar Wilde, Bill Clinton, High Grant.

Walked thru University Park to the Natural history Museum, where the highlight was the skeleton including DNA, of the extinct dodo, a large kind of pigeon that lived on an island off the Indian Ocean. The road to extinction likely began when the dodo lost the ability to fly because there were no predators. When man invaded, they were easy to catch. Even though they were foul tasting, still the bird became extinct in the 1680.

The gargoyles on St Mary’s church made a gargling sound when the water runs out, thus called gargoyles.

The Bear Inn is the oldest pub in the quaint town of Oxford. A distinctive feature of the Bear is a collection of over 4,500 snippets of neckties. Tie ends were clipped with a pair of scissors in exchange for half a pint of beer. These are now displayed in glass-fronted cases on the walls and even the low ceiling.

Who knew it was a world heritage site! The Tower of London was not only a royal palace but an infamous prison, a place of execution, beheading if you were lucky, from high treason. If you were a commoner, hanging was an hour of suffering by strangulation. You were considered lucky if a commoner pulled on your dangling legs to hasten death. The last public execution took place in 1780, collecting more viewers than the population in London. The flimsy wooden stands surrounding the square collapsed due to the weight of the crowds and killed six viewers. Anne Boleyn 2nd wife of King Henry Vlll beheaded for trumped up charges of adultry in 1536.

Once again, our tour guide from London Walks was an encyclopedia of British knowledge rambling off dates names and incidences seamlessly. After two hours he left us to explore on our own but picking the most crowded weekend of the year the cues were too long. Hence a visit to the Crown Jewels were aborted. Besides, my feet were already numb and I couldn’t wait in the cold so I abandoned the Tower of London.

The rest of the day was kind of a bust, everything was either booked or closed as I arrive late on a busy Sunday. So I walked and walked, admiring the unique architecture of London’s sky rises. Walked to Spitalfields market full of stores and pop ups. Then the underground to Soho, Chinatown, finally the West End. My plan is to purchase same day-tics where they release 20 seats in the front row, 1st come 1st serve for 20 euros: Girl from the North Country, music and lyrics by Bob Dylan and a recommended, sold out show Everybody’s talking about Jamie. Today I logged 8 miles. Tomorrow I move from my fleabag hotel to my London flat for the next eight days where I will be in luxury taking hot baths making my breakfast and sleeping in a queen-size bed with views!

Indulged in my first “walking tour” with 16 others from all over the world. Our guide was animated and informed. Neoclassical design, originally the collection from a physician of the royal family. A century later, it was open to the public. 3000 glass panel ceiling turn of the century, that connects the round reading room to the facade.

Our first room was devoted from cradle to grave, across the worlds culture, Day of the Dead etc.

The Easter Island stone figure is known as the stolen one from Easter island. Currently in negotiations between the Polynesian peoples and the Brits.

Originally a library, kind of like our Library of Congress, the books took over, cataloging fell apart and the government stepped in to move the volumes of books into the British museum.

The key to the Egyptian hieroglyphs. The most important find in history of the Rosetta Stone, from Egypt. Discovered in the river Nile, 1799, in Rosetta. 3 different types of Egyptian carvings including hieroglyphics, demophic and Ancient Greek. Meaningful because the pharaoh translated the hieroglyphics- which opened up the translation of hieroglyphics. 176 BC

Largest collection of Egyptian mummies outside of Egypt. Also, the largest, heaviest bust of King Ramesses, smiling to reflect a benevolent leader.

Cubism, surrealism, contemporary, Impressionism, modern art all under one roof located next to the River Thames. When the Tate opened its doors, it was a small collection of British artworks. Today the Tate displays a national collection of British artwork from 1500 to the present day. Many well-known artists are represented: Picasso, George Braque, Miro, Modigliani, Diego Rivera, Paul Klee, Salvador Dali, Monet and an American favorite Jackson Pollock. Notable LA artist, Ruscha painted 26 gasoline stations, 34 empty parking lots (aerial), 9 pools all reflecting commentaries of American culture.

Another American artist, Jenny Holzer, 1950 originally posted across NYC, each essay has 100 words and 20 lines that reflect her title piece, “Inflammatory Comments” reflecting political and moral positions intended to instill a sense of urgency in the reader.

An artist from Pakistan provides a cool soundtrack set against a visual form to the live quality of sound, that features a tabla/drum. Lastly, Irving Penn provides photographs of rubbish in NYC, shows overlooked objects into intriguing works of art.

The grain of fabric is the secret of couture.” Christian Dior

Dior’s parents wanted him to become a diplomat. He studied political science for three years and left to design. His parents succumbed with the stipulation that the family name not appear on the title of the business.

Christian Dior’s New Look was an immediate sensation, offering an alternative to the boxy masculine fashion post WW1. Dior’s fashion featured full, richly pleated skirts, cinched waist, hip hugging pencil skirts, long gowns epitomizing a fashionable new womanly silhouette.

Dior designed dresses for English debutantes in the 50s.

Famously, in 1951, Dior designs a dress (silk organza, mother-of-pearl and sequins) for Princess Margaret’s 21st official portrait, photographed by Cecil Beaton.

Dior designs dresses for many American celebrities that graced numerous red carpets: Olivia de Havaland, Jane Russell, Elizabeth Taylor, Rihanna, Natalie Portman, Nicole Kidman, Jennifer Lawrence.

The ateliers are the heart of Dior. The dresses made entirely by hand, using both traditional and modern techniques, often taking hundreds of hours to complete. Upon Dior’s sudden death, Yvette Saint Laurent, former Assistant, just 21 years old, appointed creative director at the House of Dior.

His first collection, circa 1960, moved the emphasis away from the waistline. Successive Creative Directors at the house, have continued Dior’s enthusiasm for the fantastical and fairy tale Dior ball gown, evening dresses and ready to wear. Present day Creative Director is notably the first woman, Maria Grazia Chiuri.

St Paul’s Cathedral aka The Nations Church, was the tallest landmark until 1962, rising 365 feet high, designed by Christopher Wren over 30 years.

Notably, Princess Diana and Charles were married in this church. One can climb stairs to the Whispering gallery, where you can hear a companion whisper from quite a distance away. It was an unplanned effect of the dome design.

Climbing 500 steps, the Golden Gallery awaits 360 views of the river Thames and the Millennium bridge that embarks on the white Globe theatre and the Tate Modern Art. Architect, Wren and Admiral Nelson are buried here.

Florence Nightingale and Winston Churchill are not buried here, but there is a tribute to Florence Nightingale. And Churchhill‘s funeral was held here.

Took a bus to Covent Square, where I stumbled into an Apple store, to watch a live feed of Apples special event broadcasted from Cupertino. Stopped me dead in my tracks. I like the new Apple credit card! I arrived a bit late for the market. Totally enjoyed the scene.

The Phantom of the Opera at Her Majesty Theatre was not to disappoint. The venue was both grand and intimate. It is the only theatre in the world where the name will change from Her Majesty to His Majesty Theatre, upon the changing of HRH. The production in SF was anemic compared to the London production. The live orchestra added to the great soundtrack. The changing sets were mesmerizing, the costumes were ornate and the theatrics was fun. A powerful performance and I love that they sell ice cream during intermission!

Kensington Palace built by Christopher Wren 1689, merged his preferred Baroque style into classical. Recall the times of the 1665 Great plague and 1666 Great Fires. Princess Victoria at 18 years old, becomes Queen of England upon her Uncles sudden death. Until then, Princess Victoria was born at Kensington Palace and reared by her overbearing Mother. At 18 years, upon becoming Queen, Victoria moves out of her childhood Kensington home, and moves to Buckingham Palace. She was the first Queen who reigned during the advent of photography-heralding in the Paparazzi and seven assassination attempt. Currently, six Royal families live at Kensington palace. Actually the current royals are living in the maids quarters from Queen Victoria’s reign. Maids quarters are really private residences because they are hidden and not seen from the palace. The most famous painting at Kensington Palace is by Van Dyke, a mythological themed Cupid and Psyche, circa 1639.

Before the London bridge was built, London did not exist. What made London bridge so famous and why it made my list to visit: it is Medieval, and at one time, counted over 30 spiked heads beheaded for treason and dipped in tar for preservation, displayed on the bridge, circa 1600. More recently, in 2017, London Bridge was the target of a terrorist attack. As a response, security barriers were installed between the bridge’s pavement and road. I felt safe crossing.

Harrods dept store was on my list mainly to see the princess Diana memorial. To my dismay, this memorial was removed six years ago and Mohamed Fayad no longer is the owner of Harrods. As relayed by a shop keeper, the Queen denied Fayad citizenship, forcing him to sell the business and move to Switzerland. Nevertheless I had something to eat, something to drink, took a picture, and shopped for clothes. Bypassed the American Brands and tried on a number of fashion from Italy and Great Britain, alas nothing really fit….

Just like Jim Morrison’s grave in Paris, you follow the crowds and arrive at Abbey road and Abbey road studio. The setting is tranquil, well to do suburb of London. Although just another intersection on an ordinary street, I really enjoyed my visit to Abbey Road, as I watched myself on live cam feed waiving to whoever was watching!

I ended my day at the Prime Ministers home, 10 Downing Street, but it was gated and guarded. I passed the Cabinet War rooms, a tour I would have loved to see! I jumped a bus to Piccadilly’s circus which resembles NYC Time Square. Had Mac and cheese with a gin and tonic and talked to a Canadian reservist Captain, stationed in Iraq and returning to his home in Nova Scotia after six months. We talked about everything from when the British and Commonwealth resisted World War II and the Americans reluctant to get involved. We talked about the Commonwealth of which Canada was one, and how much influence America has in the world reflected by the marketing of Coca-Cola, Nike and Hollywood cinema.

Tomorrow my last day, beginning with a sold out exhibit of Christian Dior at the V & A, to a tour of St Paul Cathedral, Covent Garden and a great seat at her Majesty’s theatre to watch Phantom of the Opera to unify my trip to Paris and London!

My first day arriving in London I went straight to Buckingham Palace. I’m not really sure why but when I was in Washington DC I went straight to the White House it was the only address I knew. Unfortunately there are no tours of the of the rooms until the summer months but there is always Kensington Palace. 

Knowing the Brexit protest was planned the next day, I chose to visit nearby landmark, Trafalgar Square, known for the Admiral Nelson column. Interestingly, more people die climbing the lions surrounding the column than those six who perished from the Great Fire of 1666. Westminster Abbey was my next stop, not as a visitor but as a worshipper. My iPhone put away, as I lit a candle for my Catholic Mom and stayed for mass. The Westminster choir composed of boys and men, from all over the world and schooled at the Abbey. That night I watched the wedding of Kaye and Prince William, recognizing the details of the church.Stumbled on to the National Gallery that was open until 9pm, walked right in, a free museum! Purchased an audio guide that followed the most logical, well marked museum rooms, highlighting the essential paintings. Starting with the Renaissance painters of Da Vinci, Michelangelo, Rafael and Titian. Representing Rubens to the Dutch, Rembrandt to the Impressionist painters of France. A wonderful selection of paintings reflecting the British love of arts and culture.

Started my day at the Portobello market, akin to Notting Hill, recommended by Jules, Tim and Nat. The market had everything a person could want: mink coats, Persian lights, antiques, vinyl records, old maps. Large bowls of paella boiling and French bakeries and even found a Portuguese bakery and indulged in ‘natas’. Notting Hill was made famous by Hollywood movie: Notting Hill. Hugh Grants bookstore is now a gift shop and never found his blue door. In fact, found the hood touristy but was enamored by the green sprawling, quiet gardens, accessible to only the residents of the well maintained Notting Hill flats. Spring has arrived in London. The birds are chirping, pink magnolias blossoming and white blossoms line the grounds.

Took the Underground and walked to the Royal Albert Hall for an impromptu 3pm light show Classical Extravaganza by the London Philharmonic orchestra. The newly commemorated Queen Elizabeth II Diamond Jubilee Steps are evident as approaching the hall. A state of the art stunning round building with 5 levels. Finding my seats, helped along the way, I take in the music posters along the hallways:Diana Ross greeting Princess Anne, Sting, Robert Plant, Roger Daltry, even James Taylor! I’m sitting next to a lean man, my age, from the countryside, who travels to London for the occasional show, takes the train, sits in the nosebleed section, alongside me. Says he “sweeps floors.” The conductor started with 2001 A Space Odyssey with a corresponding light show. On to Sousa’s March, that has played at every American inauguration, and Handel’s Hallelujah sung beautifully by the choir. Reluctantly, left at intermission to see more sights of London.

Payed my respects to the Princess Diana memorial in Hyde Park, contrary to trip advisors critique, it was a fitting design to reflect Diana’s life, water flows calmly and then swirls, meeting in a calm pool at the bottom. The Peter Pan statue was a bust-under construction.

Metro or bus to London’s Eye, a Birdseye view of London. A bit of a disappointment-didn’t know what views I was looking at. On my way to eat fish n chips, stumbled on a tunnel of murals, the highlight of my day.

On the recommendation of my host, late night dinner, fish n chips, mushy peas, white bread and chips aka fries at Golden Hinde! That’s a ship built in London that SFD discovered SF. Celebrating and thinking of my friend, Mary Khans birthday today.

I ended the day, watching protesters against Brexit, return from the large scale rally.

Many know Jim Morrison from The Doors, died in 1971 and was buried in Père Lachaise cemetery in Paris. Lesser known the famous Père Lachaise cemetery is reserved for the French: Modigliani, Hahnemann, Haussmann, Chopin, Edith Pilaf, Pissarro, George Seurat, Proust….Notable exceptions: Oscar Wilde, Gertrude Stein and American, Jim Morrison. Late starting class at COM, I stumbled upon an evening course called The Doors, the last class touching on Jim Morrison’s death and burial in Paris France. After that epic class by music critic and author, Richie Unterberger. The highlight of my day was hanging with other lovers and fans of Jim Morrison vs tourists surrounding Mona Lisa in the Louvre. Strolled through the cemetery, following dusty, worn trails down the hill, listening to Soul Kitchen and The End.

I seamlessly find my way using the timely, punctual French metro, first stop Saint Chapelle, built 1200 is insignificant from outside but the interior is quintessential Gothic architecture. Climbing a narrow, winding, stone facade staircase to enter the upper interior of the St Chapelle- you know you’ve arrived. Gothic and light doesn’t usually go together but here it does. The 15 separate stained glass panels show the history of the world: creation/genesis, coming of Christ, and the end of the world. After arriving, I always take the time to sit and rest.

Notre Dame-was beautiful by night during an Organ recital. The next day, I returned and managed a glimpse of the Crown of thorns and view the Holocaust Remembrance aka Le Memorial des Martyrs de la Deportation, focusing on the French Jews that were annhilated. This was a moving, thoughtful reflection of the atrocities from the French perspective. The French remind you that the Notre Dame still function as a church, confession, mass. I was quietly told to stop talking on the phone when I was only listening to the Rick Steve’s podcast.

The French love to tell the story of their saint Jeanne D Arc famous French feminist, who knew how to read, unheard of then and knew how to ride a horse and how to shoot. She volunteered to fight the English but the Army refused. Defiant, she took control of the retreating army, she defeated the English army by tactic and intelligence. Hailed as a hero. However, there were still royalist sympathizers, she is captured and brought back to Paris. She admitted “Angels talked to me” Now she was accused of being a witch, tried and sentenced to death, executed at the age of 19, burned at the stake, in front of Norte Dame, Around the 1500, French historians reviewed and reversed history, first French heroine, first feminist, newly Saint Jeanne d Arc.

Finally took a bus and approached the famous pyramid that houses the entry to the Louvre museum. Even though it’s spring break and Paris isn’t that crowded, don’t be fooled- audio guides sold out at the Louvre and sold out tickets for the Eiffel Tower. It is an international European city! The history of the world is pictured in the Louvre including Michelangelo Mona Lisa. Because Venus del Milo, the Goddess of Love, wears a size 14, I like her for that alone. Still she had a beautiful body known, discovered in Greece in 1930s.