Seoul, South Korea

Our OAT tour started in Seoul, South Korea with our exemplary 40 year old guide, Pam Kim who was born in Seoul, immigrated at 14 with her family to Toronto, Canada. She remained thru college and recently returned to Seoul as a professional tour guide. Night & day compared to our Vietnam guide. We are traveling with 5 others: Marcia retired high school guidance counselor who’s married to Burt, a retired attorney. They are traveling with their sister, a creative writing professor from Chicago. They are Jewish, 70 years old and well traveled. The other 2 women are older from Walnut Creek, churchgoers, well traveled on their 24th OAT tour.

We are staying in a lovely high rise hotel in the Myeondong location, close to subway, night markets and cable car to Seoul tower. No views from room but that’s OAT Tours. On our 1st day our tour passed a large protest. Protests common in Seoul, protected by police (battons, stun guns only) & sanctioned by government. In 2024 President Yoon declared martial law for no reason other than to compromise democracy. It was not only a local but global crisis. As recent as 2025, Yoon was impeached, later arrested, indicted & imprisoned citing treason. Wife received many designer items as bribes by Unification Church aka Moonies, interestingly, the founder from S Korea.

More interesting than the Gyeongbokung Palace tour, free for seniors, built in 1395 was walking thru historic Bukchon Hanok village. 900 well preserved homes house 6100 residents down quaint narrow streets with views of the city. Homes built tongue & groove (no nails) have large antiquated wooden doors with modern touches, a RING. Our lunch was delicious chicken soup at famous local Michelin restaurant. Our dinner also local & authentic barbecued pork, cooked at our table. Guide Pam offered us tastes of rice wine & 50% alcohol shots! Great 1st day!

Consumerism is thriving in this capital. Underground shopping, night markets, boutiques along the boulevard. The biggest industry seems to be make up and skin care.

Even though South Korea has the lowest birth rate in world, the number of people is astonishing, 50 million to be exact. The queue for popular eating spots, made popular by social media are hours long. Still crossing the street is organized until you reach a busy intersection that does not accommodate pedestrians aka crosswalk. One must walk city blocks or get lost in the underground before emerging triumphantly in the daylight!

The fashion in this capital city of South Korea is stylin cute to elegant chic. Due to the summer warmth, the colors are subdued, white, gray and black, many tennis shoes and waterproof boots, and always the proverbial umbrella or hat again to protect against the sun. I don’t know the demographic but based on how few places to sit in the city I’d say it’s a young country. The number of American companies is staggering; Kinko’s Baskin Robbins, Starbucks, McDonald’s, 7/11. Tom Cruise is on only English tv station.

My 2nd day I opted out of the tour to the farm to make chilie paste. Instead I walked 10 miles around the neighborhood, first to Shinsegae, a high end popular mall. The basement had foods similar to Harrods in London. And walked to the Four Seasons hotel where Barbe stayed. At night took cable car to Seoul tower to revel in city lights.

Ha Long Bay & town

Embarked on a 6 hr drive from Hanoi to Ha Long town for 2 nights & a private cruise on Ha Long bay, to relax amidst towering limestones islands, explore caves and a swim. That is if they get the engine working….Notably in July of this year, a tour boat sunk from bad weather with 39 mostly Vietnamese from Hanoi died & received only $950 USD compensation.

Before reaching Ha Long Bay we stopped to meet a character that raises snakes: pythons, rat snake. He, like a family in Old Quarter of Hanoi make their own moonshine. Only this guy puts the dead snake coiled into the clear jar with the moonshine. Sign of masculinity I think.

This tourist town of Ha Long is less desirable than the cruise. The town is over developed but unfinished at the same time, a virtual ghost town! It has an amusement park, roller coaster, water park, cable car, ferris wheel that was either deserted or not working. High rise hotels tower during the day & brightly lit by night but vacant or unfinished. A barrage of unfinished modern 4 story condominiums overlook the bay with a paltry number of construction workers. No convenient store accepts credit cards in this tourist town. It is an enigma. AI notes a shift in Chinese tourism trends, overbuilding and high operating costs contribute to ghost town feel.

There is no such thing as quaint seaside town with 1 million inhabitants in Da Long town. Town is modern, sprawling but they got planning all wrong. The only reason to be here is boat ride to the UNESCO site. Like every other tourist back in Hanoi hotel, I would have stayed in Hanoi & taken day trips to these towns rather than stay 2 nights in a ghost town that doesn’t accommodate tourists! Nevertheless, no regrets traveling to Vietnam.

On the other hand, OAT tours delivered with relaxing boat cruise to Ha Long Bay. We took a slow boat to China with 6 accommodating crew. We explored 1 mile of well lit caves before the crowds of tourists could be seen & heard. We returned to our boat for home made lunch then a swim, ice cream and back to the hotel on our slow boat to China. It was a truly magnificent site, the cave well preserved using pathways but the Bay is inundated with, Chris counted 30 private cruise ships and bay littered, despite the UNESCO site. Tonight we walk to loud techno music, crazy lights, against massive outdoor stage with bikini clad dancing women in cages at the Valley Beach Club. God help us! Tomorrow we fly to Seoul, South Korea.

Vietnam tour

Vietnam tour has begun with our local 25 year old guide and a nice New Zealand woman who lives near Toronto, Canada. So far, the Vietnam tour is too intimate for my style, But I’ve learned that Vietnam was occupied by China, Japan, French & attempted by America 1965-75. The patriarch of Vietnam (Uncle) Ho Chi Minh heavily influenced Vietnamese people to fight the Americans to seek independence thru solidarity.

Current Vietnam is socialist dominated by single communist party, heavily censored. This year, government pays for public education and by 2030 they aim to replace gas powered scooters with electric. There is an emphasis on beautiful, colorful mosaic walls but infrastructure lacking as water not potable by locals.

Yes, Vietnams economy growing, still a developing country. Up to 12 can live in narrow vertical homes in the old quarter. Outside, exists a chaotic & dangerous tangled wires while on the ground, flooding occurs when it rains. Think the movie Parasite. McDonalds is expensive compared to the cheap street foods in Hanoi. Very few homeless but even they are selling matches or toothpaste.

There is no evidence of police patrolling the streets, instead there is a reported abundance of undercover cops posing as Grab or Uber delivery. Chris and I like to speculate who’s undercover! Walking across the street is INSANE. You just keep a steady pace, knowing buses don’t stop and mopeds move to accommodate the pedestrians. The sidewalks are for street vendors, parked mopeds, men repairing shoes or carving spools, and room and maybe for a pedestrian walking single file.

The highlight of Vietnam was eating bun cha, a delicious soup with grilled pork & noodle, egg roll & beer all for $6 at the same diner President Obama and Anthony Bourdain made history, seen on YouTube. The table & bowls are memorialized behind plastic exactly where they sat.

Asia 2025

Not sure why I’m visiting Vietnam, South Korea & Japan. I’ve never had interest in Buddhist temples or Asian artifact and the food is a stretch for my traditional American palate. Still I’m spending 3 weeks touring countries I’ve only heard about growing up. As a young girl, I heard about the Korean War from Dad who entertained troups with Bob Hope. In the 60s, the Vietnam war was well televised and later highlighted with movies like Apocalypse Now, Coming Home. That was my 1st protest.

Arrived Hanoi, Vietnam. Initial impressions: Thriving city full of moped chaos, street vendors and friendly locals. Because of the oppressive heat, life takes place on the street (vs inside): peeling vegetables, mending shoes, making keys. Also because of the heat, night life is as vibrant as daytime. English is not spoken and cash is King!

Tour starts tomorrow but my first day walked 8 miles reflecting on history of the American war aka Vietnam war. Saw the bunker during the war that housed Joan Baez & Jane Fonda at the Metropole hotel where Presidents, monarchs, celebrities stay. Visited Hoa Lo Prison aka Hanoi Hilton built during the French occupation in 1896, the biggest and highest security in IndoChina. Focus on horrible treatment of Vietnamese as POW during French rule with little mention of the atrocities to American POWs. Rather museum rhetoric dilutes their treatment of American POWs and highlights American crimes against the people. For sure, it was a senseless conflict but the Vietnamese were not saints.

On a happier note, Sunday displayed the best of Vietnam fashion including women dressed to the nines and several brides surrounded by photographers. PS Haven’t seen one dog.

Marylebone & The Beatles

A friend asked me why I return to Marylebone. I couldn’t really answer her, but now that I’ve spent some time in Marylebone, I know the answer. First of all it’s a posh neighborhood, that is wide streets, well dressed people, clean and safe. It is also centrally located close to Baker St. and Marylebone stations.

There is some significant musical history too! The Beatles used to live here. Zak Starsky was born on Montagu Place. Jimi Hendrix lived there. John Lennon and Yoko Ono lived there. John Lennon was arrested there on trumped up charges of drugs later a cop was fired for planting drugs on Lennon. I want to hold your hand was written in the basement flat in Marylebone, the first song top hit, heralded in British Invasion.

At Marylebone City Hall, Paul McCartney married Linda Eastman, Ringo Starr married the Bond girl Barbara Bach, (uniting all 3 Beatles) and Paul McCartney married his recent wife Barbara Walters niece on the day of Lennon’s assassination. Apple was started on Baker Street. Guy Richie & Madonna used to have a home here as well.

Grow old with me is the closest you can come to a Beatles reunion: in 2019 Ringo Starr sings and plays the drums, Paul McCartney plays bass and sings on a song that John Lennon wrote.

No Beatles Tour is complete without Visiting Abbey Rd., Studios and the famous crosswalk of the album cover Abbey Road!

Goodbye England!

The trip went seamless. Travel by rail was dependable and comfortable. Lots of walking from station to hotel to town. We both lost weight! Each hotel was unique from the stable room to corporate hotel to B&B. Day tours were enriching with informative guides. Admittedly there were near misses but never lost anything. My aunt was a trouper, never complained and a good sleeper. Valley Girl had a 2 week backyard holiday & even got groomed. Lucy, my housekeeper raked up leaves in the side yard the day before home. Who could ask for more!

Back to English countryside: Liverpool

Note Mc Cartney carrying a camera
Beatle statue

In Liverpool. reference to the Beatles is everywhere: statues atop buildings, bronze statues on the wharf, murals, plaques, & posters. Since the Beatles, Liverpool is all about 60s music but before the Beatles, it was and remains a thriving working harbor. 

Ferry on the River Mersey Tour

Ferry on the Mersey

From the river Mersey one can imagine the industrial Liverpool. Even today, the River Mersey is a commercial river. At the mouth of the Irish Sea, 700,000 containers of cargo unload. In 1990, longest running dock strike until USA took action against ships using Liverpool and a settlement was accepted. A retired American naval catamaran ferry motors to the Isle of Man and a ferry goes to Dublin. A tunnel under the river from the 1930s accommodates a train and a highway. A crew member who grew up & worked in Liverpool, commutes 45 minutes from north Wales reports the river Mersey has a strong current with two 30′ tides with a strong current and unfortunately, a suicide destination. Liverpool is the port of call on the Titanic, because The White Star Line funded the project….but the ill fated ship was built in Belfast, their last port of call Ireland.

Beatles 2 hr bus tour by knowledgeable local Liverpool guide, Coddy.

Beatles Bus Tour

Mural near home of Ringo

As a child, Ringo Starr and his family used to sing along to Les Brown’s Sentimental Journey and later released his album titled Sentimental Journey 1970. 

Home of auntie where John Lennon lived

As a child John Lennon lived with his middle class auntie, with his Mummy visiting regularly until she was run over by a drunk driver. John was 18 years old.

Sir Paul McCartney home, now a trust

Paul McCartney wrote Let it Be (arranged by Phil Spector) to his Mother Mary who died from a complication from breast cancer when Paul was 14 years old.

The Cavern Club

Backdrop: Cavern Hall of Fame

The original cavern was torn down in 1973. It was a smelly, sweaty swamp; they renovated using the original bricks, & the same footprint. The decor is all posters of bands, signed guitars of musicians that have all played at the cavern since it’s opening till today. Beatles played 274 times in the Cavern between 1961-1963, as well as The Rolling Stones. Oasis, the Kinks, Sir Paul Mc Cartney & more recently, Bruce Springsteen.

This nightclub at the Cavern at 10 Mathew St. holds 700 people & sold out every weekend for the Beatles tribute band!

They were introduced with a film of Churchill declaring war against Germany, moving into American icons: Bridgett Bardo, Les Brown, James Dean and news clippings: Cuban Missile crisis, QE coronation. Music spanned from Buddy Holly, Elvis Presley, the blues. Finally to the Beatles in America: LA Hollywood Bowl, (1964), NYC Shea stadium (1965), SF Candlestick (1966) where all venues sold out in hours

The tribute band started 3 sets with I Saw Her Standing There. After the American themed introduction, the backdrop was The Cavern Wall of Fame & Shea stadium.

Liverpool Museum

Besides the Beatles, Rex Harrison, Brian Epstein, Gerry Marsden & the Pacemakers were all from Liverpool. Movies made in Liverpool includes yesterday, filmed at the Lime Street rail station, and Batman on the top of the iconic Royal Liver building.

Central Library

Entrance to Central Library

The Central Library is the largest of 22 libraries in Liverpool. When you enter, 100 computers serve the community: people surfing the web, playing solitaire, placing a bet on horse racing, writing emails.

Quiet reading room in Central Library

Central Library has the grandest ground floor entrance and the most quiet reading room ever.

World Museum

World Museum Cafe: broccoli & potato soup with crusty roll

Not known for its food, but the painted mural relief of goddess Liverpool that adorns the wall above the new cafe is worth the visit.

Polar bear preying on seal in arctic.

As contrasted by the Liverpool museum near the harbor this is the original world museum, covering prehistoric, ancient Egypt, planetarium, including an aquarium and updated to include the endangered planet.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ

Controversial addition to community

Took only 5 years to build, nicknamed Paddys Wigwam.

Liverpool Cathedral

Helio: installation of 22′ sun to reflect on light for Easter, set to immersive sound compilation
New brown bomber jacket from my fav store, M & S

Cardiff, Wales

Parador44, Cardiff, Wales

Cardiff doesn’t define Wales but it’s a city of proud people & a cosmopolitan city hosting Stevie Wonder and Alice Cooper Summer 2025. Arrived at the Parador boutique hotel, exquisitely located close to train station, the Cathedral, the Castle and the river where I get the water taxi to the harbor.

The Cardiff Castle

The Castle exhibition and tour brilliant! In 1865 Lord John Butte was the richest person in Britain and third richest in the world. Lord John inherited land, but made his money from exporting coal or black gold using the Cardiff docks. Lord John was a fanatic of all things medieval, he purchased the castle. He situated his bedroom (en suite bathroom) 75 steps high up the spiral staircase.

Cardiff Castle

Lord Bute was not only the richest person in the world but spoke 21 languages, world traveler, a self proclaimed interior decorator and a collector transforming his castle into Welsh Victorian Camelot. He visited Italy adorning his roof garden with mosaics, statues, gardens and aqueducts reminiscent of Pompeii. Despite all the wealth, family members died early: renal disease, victims of war, more recently, cancer.

WW ll Bomb shelter in Castle outer wall

Before descendants stopped living in the Castle, they provided bomb shelters in the strong outer wall during the Blitz of WWll.

Water taxi to Cardiff harbor
Cardiff, Wales Harbor: Parliament House, Harbormaster, Opera house
The Opera house, Cardiff, Wales

Water taxi to Tiger Bay, man made harbor in Cardiff, Wales. Walked a section of the Wales Coast Path covers entire Wales coastline. Amidst the quay marketplace, the harbor boasts several modern buildings: the Opera house, the Harbormaster and the Welsh Parliament building.

Oslo, Bergen & fiords, Norway

Oslo, Bergen & fiords, Norway

Norway is a narrow long country the size of New Mexico with the smallest population of the Scandinavian countries. Norway 5.5 million, 5.9 Denmark and 10.6 Sweden.
More than 1200 tunnels in Norway, the longest incorporated built-in turn around, colored lights & signs and call booths.
Lærdal, mountain town sunsets from hotel
Lærdal, mountain town in Norway
Oslo Norway Resistance Museum

The occupation of Norway provided strategic significant for the Germans during WW ll. Germany planned to invade Russia, that border with Norway. Norway had iron ore to supply war machine & nuclear power. Lastly, Norway had access to Northern sea necessary to fight off the Allies. Unlike the Danes and the Swedes, German army invasion struck a hard blow on Norways economy and loss of life.

Norwegian resistance fought back. Because of the link with the British (King and Prince of Norway retreated to Buckingham palace) they provided a lifeline and spy material to the Resistance. During the British blitz, Great Britain under Winston Churchill, fought alone for 1.5 years inspiring hope to the Resistance throughout Europe.

Some examples of Norweigen resistance: Norwegians smuggled across border with fake passport stamps. Bridges were blown up near Lillehammer to impede German advance. Both Allies and Norwegians bombed power plant and sabotaged transport to prevent Germany’s production of heavy water to produce the first atom bomb.

During the war, 40,000 political prisoners were held in camps. Survival rate less than 25% due to harsh winter conditions at 110-400 war camps or POW camps located in northern Norway. One prisoner poked holes in toilet paper sending secret messages; only the paper survived. Thousands were executed for the clandestine production of and distribution of 60 underground newspapers distributed three times a week. Resistance increased in 1943 a pivotal year where Hitler was not winning the war. End of 1944 Germans leave a scorched earth policy, detonate and burn everything in Northern Norway (and beyond). 

Norway underground suffered the most losses and contributed to defeating Nazi Germany.

Norwegian sculpture, Gustav Vigeland whimsical life-like sculptures across the lifespan and depicting emotional spectrum.
Oslo Fortress, views of ferries in harbor
View from Ferry boat from city center harbor to the many islands of the inner Oslo Fjord
Oslo community floating saunas provide cosy warmth of the sauna and cool down in the fjord. Urban sauna culture has taken Oslo by storm!
View from floating sauna in Oslo
Rock Carving
Sognefjord the longest, largest and deepest fjord of Norway, near the town of Flåm makes for some majestic views and waterfalls.
Norway fiord
Norway fiord
Massive waterfall along road to Bergen, Norway
Bergen historical Bryggen wharf, built 1070, rebuilt many times from ravaging fires. On UNESCO World Heritage list.
Tour guide around Bergen town, cobbled streets, alleys, and old wooden structures.
Funicular time lapse video
On my way home!
Business class Lufthansa via Frankfurt, Germany

Home sweet home with gifts for those at home who helped with Valley Girl.

Danish pastry and Peet’s coffee at home
Flags from Sweden, Norway, Denmark

Back to Swedish coast

Everts Sjobod in Grebbestade, along the coast of Sweden is an old boathouse from the late 1800s located in a marine protected national park. The family owned business offers a vintage electric wooden boat that takes passengers, offers newly built beach houses, a wood fired hot tub, and a delicious fish soup. There is crab, mackerel and lobster fishing, 90% of Sweden’s oysters grow in this archipelago. It is the most, beautiful, serene setting all of Scandinavia and the highlight of my trip.

Gastis hotel: Russian billionaire owned and eccentrically decorated.

Live music at Hostel Gastis bar and restaurant