Back to English countryside: Liverpool

Note Mc Cartney carrying a camera
Beatle statue

In Liverpool. reference to the Beatles is everywhere: statues atop buildings, bronze statues on the wharf, murals, plaques, & posters. Since the Beatles, Liverpool is all about 60s music but before the Beatles, it was and remains a thriving working harbor. 

Ferry on the River Mersey Tour

Ferry on the Mersey

From the river Mersey one can imagine the industrial Liverpool. Even today, the River Mersey is a commercial river. At the mouth of the Irish Sea, 700,000 containers of cargo unload. In 1990, longest running dock strike until USA took action against ships using Liverpool and a settlement was accepted. A retired American naval catamaran ferry motors to the Isle of Man and a ferry goes to Dublin. A tunnel under the river from the 1930s accommodates a train and a highway. A crew member who grew up & worked in Liverpool, commutes 45 minutes from north Wales reports the river Mersey has a strong current with two 30′ tides with a strong current and unfortunately, a suicide destination. Liverpool is the port of call on the Titanic, because The White Star Line funded the project….but the ill fated ship was built in Belfast, their last port of call Ireland.

Beatles 2 hr bus tour by knowledgeable local Liverpool guide, Coddy.

Beatles Bus Tour

Mural near home of Ringo

As a child, Ringo Starr and his family used to sing along to Les Brown’s Sentimental Journey and later released his album titled Sentimental Journey 1970. 

Home of auntie where John Lennon lived

As a child John Lennon lived with his middle class auntie, with his Mummy visiting regularly until she was run over by a drunk driver. John was 18 years old.

Sir Paul McCartney home, now a trust

Paul McCartney wrote Let it Be (arranged by Phil Spector) to his Mother Mary who died from a complication from breast cancer when Paul was 14 years old.

The Cavern Club

Backdrop: Cavern Hall of Fame

The original cavern was torn down in 1973. It was a smelly, sweaty swamp; they renovated using the original bricks, & the same footprint. The decor is all posters of bands, signed guitars of musicians that have all played at the cavern since it’s opening till today. Beatles played 274 times in the Cavern between 1961-1963, as well as The Rolling Stones. Oasis, the Kinks, Sir Paul Mc Cartney & more recently, Bruce Springsteen.

This nightclub at the Cavern at 10 Mathew St. holds 700 people & sold out every weekend for the Beatles tribute band!

They were introduced with a film of Churchill declaring war against Germany, moving into American icons: Bridgett Bardo, Les Brown, James Dean and news clippings: Cuban Missile crisis, QE coronation. Music spanned from Buddy Holly, Elvis Presley, the blues. Finally to the Beatles in America: LA Hollywood Bowl, (1964), NYC Shea stadium (1965), SF Candlestick (1966) where all venues sold out in hours

The tribute band started 3 sets with I Saw Her Standing There. After the American themed introduction, the backdrop was The Cavern Wall of Fame & Shea stadium.

Liverpool Museum

Besides the Beatles, Rex Harrison, Brian Epstein, Gerry Marsden & the Pacemakers were all from Liverpool. Movies made in Liverpool includes yesterday, filmed at the Lime Street rail station, and Batman on the top of the iconic Royal Liver building.

Central Library

Entrance to Central Library

The Central Library is the largest of 22 libraries in Liverpool. When you enter, 100 computers serve the community: people surfing the web, playing solitaire, placing a bet on horse racing, writing emails.

Quiet reading room in Central Library

Central Library has the grandest ground floor entrance and the most quiet reading room ever.

World Museum

World Museum Cafe: broccoli & potato soup with crusty roll

Not known for its food, but the painted mural relief of goddess Liverpool that adorns the wall above the new cafe is worth the visit.

Polar bear preying on seal in arctic.

As contrasted by the Liverpool museum near the harbor this is the original world museum, covering prehistoric, ancient Egypt, planetarium, including an aquarium and updated to include the endangered planet.

Metropolitan Cathedral of Christ

Controversial addition to community

Took only 5 years to build, nicknamed Paddys Wigwam.

Liverpool Cathedral

Helio: installation of 22′ sun to reflect on light for Easter, set to immersive sound compilation
New brown bomber jacket from my fav store, M & S

Cardiff, Wales

Parador44, Cardiff, Wales

Cardiff doesn’t define Wales but it’s a city of proud people & a cosmopolitan city hosting Stevie Wonder and Alice Cooper Summer 2025. Arrived at the Parador boutique hotel, exquisitely located close to train station, the Cathedral, the Castle and the river where I get the water taxi to the harbor.

The Cardiff Castle

The Castle exhibition and tour brilliant! In 1865 Lord John Butte was the richest person in Britain and third richest in the world. Lord John inherited land, but made his money from exporting coal or black gold using the Cardiff docks. Lord John was a fanatic of all things medieval, he purchased the castle. He situated his bedroom (en suite bathroom) 75 steps high up the spiral staircase.

Cardiff Castle

Lord Bute was not only the richest person in the world but spoke 21 languages, world traveler, a self proclaimed interior decorator and a collector transforming his castle into Welsh Victorian Camelot. He visited Italy adorning his roof garden with mosaics, statues, gardens and aqueducts reminiscent of Pompeii. Despite all the wealth, family members died early: renal disease, victims of war, more recently, cancer.

WW ll Bomb shelter in Castle outer wall

Before descendants stopped living in the Castle, they provided bomb shelters in the strong outer wall during the Blitz of WWll.

Water taxi to Cardiff harbor
Cardiff, Wales Harbor: Parliament House, Harbormaster, Opera house
The Opera house, Cardiff, Wales

Water taxi to Tiger Bay, man made harbor in Cardiff, Wales. Walked a section of the Wales Coast Path covers entire Wales coastline. Amidst the quay marketplace, the harbor boasts several modern buildings: the Opera house, the Harbormaster and the Welsh Parliament building.

Oslo, Bergen & fiords, Norway

Oslo, Bergen & fiords, Norway

Norway is a narrow long country the size of New Mexico with the smallest population of the Scandinavian countries. Norway 5.5 million, 5.9 Denmark and 10.6 Sweden.
More than 1200 tunnels in Norway, the longest incorporated built-in turn around, colored lights & signs and call booths.
Lærdal, mountain town sunsets from hotel
Lærdal, mountain town in Norway
Oslo Norway Resistance Museum

The occupation of Norway provided strategic significant for the Germans during WW ll. Germany planned to invade Russia, that border with Norway. Norway had iron ore to supply war machine & nuclear power. Lastly, Norway had access to Northern sea necessary to fight off the Allies. Unlike the Danes and the Swedes, German army invasion struck a hard blow on Norways economy and loss of life.

Norwegian resistance fought back. Because of the link with the British (King and Prince of Norway retreated to Buckingham palace) they provided a lifeline and spy material to the Resistance. During the British blitz, Great Britain under Winston Churchill, fought alone for 1.5 years inspiring hope to the Resistance throughout Europe.

Some examples of Norweigen resistance: Norwegians smuggled across border with fake passport stamps. Bridges were blown up near Lillehammer to impede German advance. Both Allies and Norwegians bombed power plant and sabotaged transport to prevent Germany’s production of heavy water to produce the first atom bomb.

During the war, 40,000 political prisoners were held in camps. Survival rate less than 25% due to harsh winter conditions at 110-400 war camps or POW camps located in northern Norway. One prisoner poked holes in toilet paper sending secret messages; only the paper survived. Thousands were executed for the clandestine production of and distribution of 60 underground newspapers distributed three times a week. Resistance increased in 1943 a pivotal year where Hitler was not winning the war. End of 1944 Germans leave a scorched earth policy, detonate and burn everything in Northern Norway (and beyond). 

Norway underground suffered the most losses and contributed to defeating Nazi Germany.

Norwegian sculpture, Gustav Vigeland whimsical life-like sculptures across the lifespan and depicting emotional spectrum.
Oslo Fortress, views of ferries in harbor
View from Ferry boat from city center harbor to the many islands of the inner Oslo Fjord
Oslo community floating saunas provide cosy warmth of the sauna and cool down in the fjord. Urban sauna culture has taken Oslo by storm!
View from floating sauna in Oslo
Rock Carving
Sognefjord the longest, largest and deepest fjord of Norway, near the town of Flåm makes for some majestic views and waterfalls.
Norway fiord
Norway fiord
Massive waterfall along road to Bergen, Norway
Bergen historical Bryggen wharf, built 1070, rebuilt many times from ravaging fires. On UNESCO World Heritage list.
Tour guide around Bergen town, cobbled streets, alleys, and old wooden structures.
Funicular time lapse video
On my way home!
Business class Lufthansa via Frankfurt, Germany

Home sweet home with gifts for those at home who helped with Valley Girl.

Danish pastry and Peet’s coffee at home
Flags from Sweden, Norway, Denmark

Back to Swedish coast

Everts Sjobod in Grebbestade, along the coast of Sweden is an old boathouse from the late 1800s located in a marine protected national park. The family owned business offers a vintage electric wooden boat that takes passengers, offers newly built beach houses, a wood fired hot tub, and a delicious fish soup. There is crab, mackerel and lobster fishing, 90% of Sweden’s oysters grow in this archipelago. It is the most, beautiful, serene setting all of Scandinavia and the highlight of my trip.

Gastis hotel: Russian billionaire owned and eccentrically decorated.

Live music at Hostel Gastis bar and restaurant

Copenhagen, Kolmar, Varberg, Denmark

Bus across the five mile Oresund bridge and tunnel connecting Sweden and Denmark.

Copenhagen, Denmark
Selfie
Being entertained by a theatre performing Hans Christian Andersen while waiting for dinner

Hans Christen Andersen was a poor Dane, who experienced many failures before becoming Danish most loved author of 175 children’s fairy tales, the most famous being: Ugly Duckling, the Princess & the Pea and The Little Mermaid. He also wrote travel logs and Andersen made famous the adage “to travel is to live”, my kinda historical figure!

The Museum of Danish Resistance

Like Sweden, Danes supported the German war machine and farmers put food on German tables to keep economy afloat and avoid unemployment. Unlike the Swedes, there is overt and passive resistance to cooperate and accommodate with Nazi Germany. Like Norway, Denmark was occupied but kept their Constitution. In September 1941, Danes agree that any German demand be rejected on the basis of the Constitution and best countered by all Danes wearing the Star of David. In the darkness of night, the Danish resistance moved families of Jews by canals to Sweden. Others spied by listening to telephone conversations and sabotaged railroad tracks. A more discreet way to boost democracy against dictatorship was posters that advertise patriotism.

Little mermaid: According to Forbes, this is an underrated tourist attraction, likely due to its diminutive stature.
Boat ride around Copenhagen harbor: floating spa/club, paddle board with dog, topless young women

Copenhagen was full of activity on this sunny summer day. Danes paddle boarding, boating, canoeing, swimming, sun bathing topless!

Danish government made concerted effort to increase female statues in Copenhagen. Karen Christenze Dinesen, the Danish author, storyteller and colonizer, known pseudonym, Isak Dinesen wrote numerous famous books. Out of Africa, my favorite was an account of her life in a coffee farm in the Ngong hills of Kenya, complete with hardships and rewards. Blixen could have been awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature but the judges didn’t want to overrepresent the Scandinavians, regretfully. Infamously, many African leaders believe she was one of the most dangerous foreigners who stepped foot on Africa. Specifically she writes of vast erotic African wasteland and black servants as useful butchers and cooks. To be sure, Blixen was a complex independent woman living in a complex time.

Group shot from tour on Viking ship!
Largest Viking ship found in the waters off of Denmark. Viking means warrior of the sea.
Norwegian Mountain horses, pulling gypsies
Ferry to Aero island, Denmark
Andelen hotel, Adam owner
Bike ride
Live music from hotel room
Traditional Danish lunch: open faced sandwiches
Home built fireplace with stacked wood, Aeros island
Jazz festival venue

Stockholm, Sweden 2024

Stockholm, Sweden 2024
Stockholm Sweden
Business class lounge

Flight from Frankfurt delayed 3 hours due to European climate protesters at Frankfurt airport. Comfortably slept 4 hours on upper level of business class on Lufthansa, complete with mattress, comfy blanket, a long sleeved shirt and socks provided by airline. Despite delay, easily made connection from Frankfurt to Stockholm.

Arrived! Views from suite at Hotel Wellington
Well rested and ready to explore Stockholm 2 days before tour!
Vertical wall garden
A landmark next to hotel, an early 1700 Lutheran church poised in a park
Östermalms Saluhall, food court: simmering Swedish meatballs

Östermalms Saluhall or food court: Filets of salmon and herring showcase the ice filled displays, highlighted on Anthony Bourdain’s show

Upon recommendation from a local on the plane, took a 2 hour boat ride on the Baltic sea, under the bridges, and thru a Locke into the many lakes of Stockholm. In addition to sailboats, views of high rise townhouses from the water dominate the skyline. Flats full of walls of glass to capture light in winter. Colors of buildings are muted like the color of snow. 50% rent & 50% purchase.

Visited Nobel Prize museum in Stockholm. Controversial prizes include: Both Kissinger and Vietnamese leader received peace prize in 1973 but Vietnam leader refused prize because he didn’t believe peace had been achieved in Vietnam. Two Americans received controversial Prizes (1948, 1949) for inventing now banned DDT insecticides (environmental impact) and the other lobotomy, that negatively affects psyche.

Heidi from Copenhagen Rick Steves tour guide extraordinaire
Johnnie from Sweden, part time bus driver for Rick Steves.

Sweden is slightly larger than California. Stockholm is a city of 2 million persons, comprised of 14 islands accessible by tunnels and bridges. 10.5 million Swedes and 20% of Swedish population are immigrants. Ranked 25th COLA index (as compared to Switzerland ranked #1). Clearly everything I’ve purchased is more or the same as California prices: bottles of water, alcohol, clothes and pharma items. Sweden is a 200 year old monarchy, a capitalistic society, a democracy and a socialist society! Unlike British monarchy, Swedish monarchy does not own palace or property. Capitalistic because they are 16th largest exporter of military equipment and boast 250 private military industries. Democratic because parliament government officials elected by the people, predominantly nurses and teacher. Socialist because Sweden government provides pension or social security and health care to all. Scandinavia countries taxed 38-48% depending on annual salary (US caps out taxes at 38%).

Stockholm Tour Guide Haakin Nobel prize Banquet room

Like Mark Twain, Swede Alfred Nobel the wealthiest man in the world read about his premature death while alive as the Merchant of Death bc of his invention of dynamite. Prompted by this premature eulogy, he donated his wealth to be distributed to 4 prizes, later a 5th prize generated by Oslo, Norway, the Peace prize.

Interesting historical fact is Sweden was neutral during WW ll but according to Winston Churchill, they played both sides for profit. Famous Swede rescued Swedish Jews from trains claiming he was a Swedish diplomat. On the other hand, Swedes provided military aide to the Germans and allowed millions of Germans to march thru Sweden.

Gamla Stan or Old town
Haakan home in Gamla Stan

Rick Steves tour started with a walking tour with Haakon, a guest lecturer who invited us into his home in old town of Gamla Stan. Some interesting facts: Alcohol not sold in supermarkets and not after 3 on Saturday. Priests more likely to be women. All women faces on Swedish bills including director Ingmar Bergman, actress Greta Garbo and author Astrid Lindgren. Most secular people but everyone studies religion. Plastic water bottles have caps attached. Dogs cannot be left longer than 4 hours, tho not enforced. Parental leave is 18 months for each child, double for twins. Both parents work, no housewives. Employment not disparate among sexes. Vehicles yield to pedestrians but bicycles do not. Good morning in Swedish sounds like moron in English. Cashless society, all transactions Apple Pay or Swish, our Venmo. Stockholm cellular available much of the time.

Stockholm Subway art: Art depicting 1) an archeological excavation site, 2) silhouette of workers, 3) Chernobyl nuclear accident in Russia.

Remains of a 200 foot Swedish warship which sank on her maiden voyage nearly 400 years ago, due to top heavy with canons as ordered by King.

Varbarg, Sweden
Kalmar castle in cozy Kalmar, Sweden

Walk and dip into waters at Kalmar, Sweden

Nobel Prize Banquet room showcasing beautiful mosaics.
Continue reading “Stockholm, Sweden 2024”

Ireland 2023

Scottish and Irish flags: the most gracious, friendly, helpful people in some of the most beautiful country. The Irish love the Americans. The Pope and JFK were on every mantle in Irish households,
Glasgow to Belfast: train, bus, ferry all day journey, arrived in Belfast, Northern Ireland on the Sten Line
Conditions: Perfectly calm waters, no wind, sprinkle of rain entering Belfast port
Ship had wide range of facilities including choice of dining and bars, and leisure facilities like cinema, spa, game room,
Belfast Titanic quarter: Building represents the ship, Titanic. Element represents ships legacy: hull, iceberg and even benches reflecting Morse code!
Titanic memorial Belfast downtown. Common to every catastrophic event, in addition to adverse weather conditions and high speed: no binoculars in crows nest, unheeded emergency warnings, design of bulkheads, lack of lifeboats and no drills all contributed to loss of life. Lastly, the Californian was closest to ship but operator went to bed.
Belfast downtown landmarks (Queens Uni, Botanical gardens, Queen Victoria, City Hall): a little rough around the edges, not kept up, not a tourist town, more working class but lovely.
To Dublin, Ireland: Last nite, purchased new double breasted short jacket from favorite Spanish store, Zara.
Dublin: My private tour guide, adorable, intelligent, funny Colm from Dublin took me south thru Cabir to the tourist town of Blarney. Irish economy: 1980s, major export 50,000 Irish. Today, import 50,000 Irish year. Largest industry contributing to strong Irish GNP is pharmaceutical, medical supplies and tech. Last 35 years, international headquarters located Scotland: Apple in Cork, Facebook in Dublin. Why? Low taxes, only English speaking in EU and hey….Ireland is a nice place to live!
Cahir: Town of the Republic of Ireland, simply stunning complete with swans. Caveat- can you believe America is home to more Irish Americans than Ireland is home to Irish.
Tour of Jameson whiskey distillery: Under Irish law, Irish whiskey must age in barrels for minimum of 3 years. Barrels from Portugal, Spain, Madeira, California contribute to range of taste profiles: Butterscotch barley, toasted wood, toasted oak sherry, vanilla/sherry nutiness,
Kilkenny quaint fishing village with live music coming from pubs after 830. Nautical theme prevail on doorways, windows, stained glass.
Cobh Largest natural port, second to Sydney, Australia. In addition to Titanics last port, during the potato famine, 3 million Irish emigrated from harbor. Also famous for memorials commemorating last port of call for the Titanic and the Lusitania traveling between USA and Liverpool, England, in 1912 torpedoed and sunk by Germans, spurring WW l.
Kilkenny castle: The wall sized murals lined the castle interior walls were intended for warmth, but also told a story symbolizing power strength, nobility of the family. Murals were brightly colored gold & silver silk, making images life like.
Fact or fiction? Irishman from Hollywood, Ireland immigrated to California during the famine. He ended up naming a racetrack Hollywood from his birthplace and it became the name of the town. Both in Hollywood California and Ireland, they have a replica of iconic Hollywood sign in the hills and has filmed a number of films there.
Hollywood California note palm tree and Hollywood, Ireland note green hills! Both pictures taken 2023.
Irish own their own land,. Trees grow fast due to good soil. Cows are grass fed not corn. Kerrygold known Irish brand for butter.
Beautiful Ireland at the end of my 18 day trip! Stunning landscape, gateway to Wicklow Mountains National Park. Only one hour drive from Dublin City center.
Kitaa, Greenland from 38,000′.
Approaching Bay Area, San Mateo bridge in foreground.
Ocean Beach, San Francisco reunited with Valley Girl after 18 day trip to Scotland & Ireland

Scotland: The Highlands

Inverness

My only Bed and Breakfast offered quiet humble room with breakfast sweetened with hospitality.
Town of Inverness gateway to the Highlands, day tours below. River Ness lovely centerpiece for a walk alongside.
The Isle of Skye: became tourist attraction after Queen Elizabeth purchased nearby Balmoral castle.
The Isle of Skye: peak season, one needs a dinner reservation and campers, backpackers camp anywhere and everywhere.
The Isle of Skye: well worth the visit the area abounds with hidden waterfalls, bounding rivers and rocky terrain.
Isle of Skye: Exemplifies The glorious magnificent Highlands of Scotland
Balnuaran of Clara a sacred landscape, a prehistoric site that interred important member of community, 4000 years ago.
Witness the last civil war between the Jacobites aka the Highlanders vs British government who fought on Scottish soil in 1746 at Culloden, fought about clans and religion on this sacred field. Highlanders were evicted, replaced with sheep.?They repressed Highland culture: banned the kilt, banished bagpipe, and carrying weapons.
A modern interactive exhibit of the close range battle and mass graves of Culloden. Ferocious hand to hand fighting, the Jacobites faint with hunger and lack of sleep, 700 dead in seconds by British cavalry of cannon fire, mortar bombs, musket with bayonet, swords. Excavation of metal objects unfolded details of battle.
After the 1846 Culloden battle, the Highlander people were banished and replaced with non native white sheep that currently dominates the landscapes. Smaller and heartier black sheep are native to the Highlands and are found in only small herds today.
Glen Afric is a nature preserve where Scottish pine has been replanted on the banks of a winding river.. Highlands privately owned by 500 billionaire men of non native Scottish heritage who use land for hunting lodges.
Pippa Middleton married the blue blood Matthew family who owns the private hunting lodge in Glen Afric posted no trespassing signs goes against Scotlands motto, FREE TO ROAM.

Loch Ness & Fort Augustine

James from Rabbies tours drove around Loch Ness, spotted a 10 point stag, stopped at waterfall and beach where a gentleman named Steve lives 33 years looking for the Loch Ness monster!

Loch Ness While Loch Ness is best known for the Loch Ness monster, Loch Ness connects the North Sea to the Atlantic thru lockes. The town of Inverness opens to the North sea, going down the Loch Ness to Fort Augustus through locks to the Atlantic ocean, which bypasses the more northern waters.

Fort Augustus connects the North Sea to the Atlantic using a series of locks to accommodate working barges, Scottish naval ships and sailboats.
Boat ride on Loch Ness.
Video of bag pipe player on the Highland tour

Glasgow, Scotland

Early on, the heart of Glasgow was ship building as reflected in architecture: bow, keel, sails of sailing ships.

Glasgow Perspective from hop on bus, only 2 days in Glasgow, Central Train Station and University

First rain after 9 days in Scotland. On last Rabbies tour in Scotland to Glencoe and Loch Lomand and Trossachs National Park.
Frying up Scallops from the sea to frying pan in resort town of Oban.

Windsor Castle

Windsor castle is the home of kings and queens for centuries. Also St George’s church is nextdoor, where Prince Harry and Meghan Markle married. I was allowed admittance for services only, no touring, so I enjoyed a 30 minute sermon.

The church is divided in half, making the ceremony more intimate. I comfortably sat where royalty sat, to watch the sermon. The church is also site of tombs and memorials. King George VI (Kings speech), Queen Elizabeth (The Queen Mother) and Princess Margaret (QEll sister) are interred in a memorial chapel. The coffin of Henry VIII is also buried here.

Windsor Castle burned in 1992, after 5 years of rebuilding, there is little remnant of charred wood. The castle wasn’t as cold and drafty as I expected.

The state rooms were posh, high painted ceilings, and expansive Turkish rugs. The countryside was lovely, green pastures, Thanes meandering with swans swimming.

The Blitz

St Paul Cathedral

The blitz lasted 9 months of unrelenting bombing, London was the main target but 16 cities, killing 60,000 civilians. The Germans desiccated the area around St Paul cathedral, where the their aim was to take down the stock exchange. In actuality, the Brits had already dispersed their central stock exchange. This picture shows Saint Pauls Cathedral surrounded by post World War II modern buildings. How did the British win the war, the Brits out maneuvered the Germans.

Guide from London Walking Tour

The British are not particularly organized but when they put their mind to it they excel. They caught a large German spy ring and offered them death or work with the British. Half chose death as they were die hard Natzi but the other half worked with the Brits. The other maneuver was the double cross committee, aka XX, actor David Niven was a member, who would think up ideas to scramble messages and relay false info to the Germans using the spy’s under the direction of Brits. Lastly, the Brits decoded the Enigma code, made famous by the film, The Imitation Game.

The Commonwealth fought with the British, against German, in fact Canadians had heavy casualties.

Trafalgar Square

The Norwegians in their gratitude, send a Christmas tree directly from Oslo, Norway, set up prominently at Trafalgar Square annually. Simon, traveling to London for 2 days told me his Father fought in World War II as a merchant marine was on the boat when the first tree was delivered to the British people.

The symbol of British resistance was St Paul’s Cathedral. Today, modern skyscrapers post WWll replace the downed buildings.